4 STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF
THE OCEAN SURFACE
Measurements of oceanic wave statistics have shown
that, to a reasonable accuracy, the surface elevation η
follows a normal distribution. Attributes of oceanic
waves we simulate are consistent with these observa-
tions. If we look at the oceanic surface as an infinite
sum of waves with infinitely small amplitude, we see
that the wave spectrum is a probability density func-
tion of wave frequencies and directions. Furthermore,
the variance of the surface elevation is finite (equa-
tion 12). So, by virtue of the central limit theorem,
we know that the more waves we sum, the closer to
the normal distribution is the simulated surface eleva-
tion.
Another observed characteristic of oceanic waves
is that their heights follow a Rayleigh distribution,as
noted by (Fournier and Reeves, 1986). This distribu-
tion is used with a parameter σ = H
s
/2, where H
s
≈
4
var(η) is known as the significant height. From
this, it can be shown that the probability that a wave
has a larger height than H
s
is exp(−2) ≈ 0.1353.
Since they use defined amplitudes, the ocean mod-
els presented in section 2 are known as determinis-
tic methods. (Tucker et al., 1984) showed that uni-
formly distributed random phase terms φ should be
replaced with random amplitudes. An expression like
a cos(κx
0
− ωt + φ) becomes
r
1
a cos(κx
0
− ωt)+r
2
a sin(κx
0
− ωt)
= Ra sin(κx
0
− ωt +Φ),
(28)
where r
1
and r
2
are random numbers from the stan-
dard normal distribution, i.e. with a mean of zero and
a standard deviation of one, R =
r
2
1
+ r
2
2
follows a
Rayleigh distribution and
Φ=
⎧
⎪
⎪
⎨
⎪
⎪
⎩
arctan
r
1
r
2
if r
2
≥ 0
arctan
r
1
r
2
+ π if r
2
< 0.
This non-deterministic method has better statistical
properties than the previous one. In order to use it
with parametric and FFT methods, we rewrite equa-
tions 4 and 6 according to equation 28.
5 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
We made a simple real-time implementation of ocean
models. We focused on wave shapes and animations,
without considering effects like Fresnel reflectivity
and transmissivity, or foam and spray (figure 7). Of
course, rendering could have been achieved with clas-
sical high quality techniques as well. Interactions of
objects with ocean surfaces are not specially handled
by the Lagrangian model we use, and are beyond the
scope of this paper.
Since our method preserves the main spectrum en-
ergy, the global structure of the rendered surface is in-
dependent of the number of waves we sum. For both
ocean models, the sea state we get is always consis-
tent with the provided wind parameters, which cannot
be achieved with other existing methods. Since these
parameters are the only ones needed to have full con-
trol of the method, there is no need for the user to
adjust the resulting surface by trial and error.
As previously noted, the FFT model can be partic-
ularly tedious to use. To catch a reasonable part of the
spectrum, the grid length and the number of samples
have to be carefully chosen, whatever are the desired
surface characteristics. For example, taking 512 sam-
ples up to a frequency of 25 rad·s
−1
requires a grid
length of no more than 25 m. Furthermore, as this
leads to a lowest frequency of about 1.5 rad·s
−1
, the
spectrum peak may be under-sample.
We have tested our implementation with a 3 GHz
Pentium 4 PC and a Radeon 9200 graphic board. With
the FFT model, we got about 65 fps and 13 fps with,
respectively, a grid of 128 × 128 and 256 × 256 sam-
ples. With the parametric equations, we got 8 fps with
a regular grid of 128 × 128 samples and 50 waves.
And taking less than 100 waves leads to poor detailed
results. Clearly, only the FFT can reach interactive
rate. Although we do not implement an adaptive sur-
face mesh, it seems obvious this could not compete
with the FFT speed. Parametric equations should be
kept for non-interactive rendering, since they are eas-
iest to use.
6 CONCLUSION
We have presented a method for accurate wave energy
spectrum sampling that allows realistic ocean surface
synthesis and animation. For given wind parameters,
the wave heights and directions are computed such
that statistical properties of the resulting surface are
correct. Since it does not rely on any ocean model,
this method is suitable for Gerstner equations and
Fourier transforms.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The author wish to thank Bertrand le Sa
¨
ec and Jean-
Christophe Gonzato for rereading this paper.
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