fabric material to make the designer’s conception to
be perfectly displayed (Wu HongJie, 2017). With its
metaphorical meaning, if the science and technology
of clothing fabric is not understood, the selection of
fabric material will be wrong, and this would go
against the designer's original intent.
Therefore, how to give full play to the role of
fabric material from the aesthetic and scientific
aspects, the correct selection and application of fabric
is the most important part of clothing design. Neil
Barrett, a former design director at Prada men's wear
when it launched in 1995, has a track record of
employing high-tech fabrics in his tailoring. He was
among the first to use polyester stretch for Prada's
minimalist-chic suits, now a common men's wear
staple.
Today, with his own label, Barrett manipulates
textiles to create sculptural silhouettes with a
masculine aesthetic. He took to “emptying” the fabric
to preserve the construction but reduce weight,
essentially conjuring garments as comfortable as
travel clothing, and whipping up new surfaces. For
2017 fall, he introduced his version of an ecologically
friendly “fur,” digitally printing a photograph of a
black and a brown bear and multiplying it on various
pieces — a duffle coat, a sweatshirt, a bomber. “I tried
real fur, but it looked too retro, and eco fur was so
pantomime,” Barrett said, “explore further fabric
innovation. Every seaso
n I'm like: What's next?”
Figure 1: Neil Barrett Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection.
Italy. Designer: Neil Barrett.
Fashion designers' innovations in fabrics are
becoming more common. The designer nominated for
2017 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize,
(Tillmann lauterbach, 2017) laments a lack of
innovation in textiles over the last three or four years,
but said he has sensed a big shift in attitude and
progress in the eco department. “Today it's important
to create a story. It's not just about the look, but about
how the garment was made, who will innovate the
fabric? who made it and was it good for the planet.”
Using synthetic fiber made from recycled PET
bottles may almost appear basic, considering that
Lauterbach has long been creating arty sweaters
knitted from second-hand denim threads and turning
down fabrics that do not meet his production criteria.
Although it's difficult to place a figure on how much
money and time fashion labels invest in fabrics
development, most designers queried acknowledged
that it was “substantial.” Berluti's artistic director
(Alessandro Sartori, 2016)said the company invests
“a lot” in fabric research and development in an
attempt to create “a new generation of garments,”
employing a number of technical quirks on luxurious
fabrics, melding elegance with functionality.
What really changes are the fabrics. They are one
of the building blocks of clothing. With them, you can
express yourself. That's why designers develop their
own colors, fabrics and patterns, and this represents
an unusual culture for a clothing brand. The most
experimental designers (Damir Doma,2017) believe
fabrics create value. Eighty percent of his fabrics are
designed exclusively for his collections. “Today
everyone wants to be and do luxury, and it turns into
such a cheap word — it doesn't mean anything
anymore. What is important is the idea of longevity,
and you can create that through substance. Our
substance is our fabric, it's what makes the piece; it's
a great tool,” he said.
The possibilities of working with materials are
endless. Stone washing, boiling wool or rubber
finishes are just the basics. Known for going against
the flow, Damir Doma launched his men's collection
proposing softly tailored, relaxed silhouettes at a time
when Hedi Slimane's slim fit at Dior Homme set the
tone. His goal is to up the exclusivity factor of his
textiles to 100 percent, but he said, “It only makes
sense if the value of the fabrics is visible, otherwise
people don't get it.” After all, In fashion we try to
make people look attractive, uplift them, make them
look better than they usually do. Our main goal is
beauty. Innovation in fabrics can help you achieve it.
3 ANALYSIS OF THE CURRENT
SITUATION OF STREET
CULTURE CLOTHING DESIGN
Street culture clothing design is a pop culture
phenomenon, a modern social civilization product
and this fashion trend is largely the specific
environment under the consumer personalized needs